The Singular Song of Gamay
Beaujolais is a sunny, temperate vineyard area due south of Bourgogne in eastern France. This hilly, mainly granite-based region is almost entirely dedicated to Gamay Noir, the region’s only red grape. Its wines generally display evocative dark berry and floral aromas, bright acidity, and moderate tannins.
Throughout much of its history, Gamay was much maligned. In Medieval Times, after the Black Plague decimated Bourgogne’s workforce, great swathes of the vineyard were re-planted to Gamay – a much easier to grow, more productive cultivar than Pinot Noir. Over production led to thin, bitter wines causing the Duke of Bourgogne to deem Gamay, a “bad and disloyal” grape, banning it from his lands.
More recently, the popularity of freshly fermented, Beaujolais Nouveau caused the region’s fortunes to once again rise and then dramatically fall, as people tired of its candied, artificial aromas. Thankfully, Beaujolais lovers are back. A new generation of terroir-focused producers is showing just how good Gamay can be from lower yielding vineyards, grown in the best sites, and vinified with premium quality in mind.
A Storied History of Bordeaux Blends
Heading southwest over the French countryside some 400 kilometres, as the crow flies, we arrive in Bordeaux. The climate here is maritime influenced. Divided in two by the mighty Gironde Estuary, the left bank of Bordeaux is flat and gravelly. Top wines are made from Cabernet Sauvignon-led blends. On the right bank, deeper clay, limestone soils favour Merlot-dominant wines.
A deep-seated reverence for Bordeaux dates back many centuries. Overseas interest for Bordeaux wines swelled in the 12th century upon Henry Plantagenet’s marriage to Aliénor of Aquitaine. In the 17th century, quality soared when Dutch engineers drained the marshlands and swamps of the Médoc, revealing what are today, among the region’s finest terroirs.
While Beaujolais produces pleasant Chardonnay wines, and Bordeaux excels at crafting both dry and sweet Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc blends, both regions are best known for their red wines. In Bordeaux, winemaking is highly traditional. The best wines are vinified with careful extraction techniques and extended maceration times to harness their powerful tannins. Long ageing in varying proportions of new and older French oak barrels is the norm.
Where the Twain do Meet
Beaujolais might not have the formalized classification systems that sets Left Bank growths, Médoc Cru Bourgeois wines, and Saint Émilion Cru Classé wines apart, but it boasts equally important terroir distinctions. Ten cru appellations exist in the more mountainous north, and central parts, of the vineyard. Wines from areas like Moulin-à-Vent, Morgon, Côte de Brouilly, and Fleurie are far fuller-bodied, tannic, and ageworthy than basic Beaujolais.
Inversely, regional appellations like Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Superieur AOC, can be lighter, softer, and earlier drinking than expected. This is where the two regions align. Though their fruit character and palate profiles differ, they both offer great value, everyday wine styles brimming with freshness.
Lured in by this accessible point of entry, intrepid wine lovers can then easily ascend the quality ladder in Beaujolais, just as they can in Bordeaux. A top Beaujolais will generally peak at ten years ageing, while great Bordeaux can go for twenty years or more. This way, wine lovers can enjoy their best Beaujolais while waiting for fine Bordeaux wines to develop.
Recommendations from the Cellar
There are loads of delicious Beaujolais wines to explore in this cellar. Château de Durette has come back strong this year with a slate of lovely wines, including fantastic Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent. Don’t miss their mixed case offerings. Domaine Sancy Chénas is sure to bring a lot of immediate pleasure and Domaine Montangeron Fléurie is a very pretty, perfumed choice.
Our Bordeaux offerings include such a wealth of fantastic options that it is hard to know where to begin! La Devine du Clos Cantenac, from Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, was a unanimous top scorer, earning it a coup de coeur spot. Lovers of older, ready-to-drink Bordeaux wines should consider the mixed case from Château Moutin. Finally, collector’s will not be disappointed by the magnificent Pomerols from Château Séraphine.
by Jacky Blisson MW
Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.