Hens’ Teeth, Cuckoo’s Nest and French Whisky

One can be forgiven for thinking that we are talking about mythical, phantasmagorical things here. Yet one of these actually exist, if just – French whisky.

Probably the shortest Wikipedia article I’ve ever seen – there is really not a lot on the subject out there – informs us that the first French whisky was produced at Warenghem distillery as recently as 1987, which also offered the first Malt version in 1998. That’s an interesting fact, given the long history of famous distillates in France – Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, Marcs and Eau-de-Vies.

 

Most of the reference styles of whisky (“whiskey” in North America) – Scotch, Irish, Bourbon and Rye – have decades, or in case of the former two, centuries of history. As a result, they all have developed regulations to be met before the clear distillate can be called “whisky” or a specific style – the make-up of the raw materials, the proportions of the blend, minimum ageing time or the combination of those and more. French whisky, new as it is, has very few of these. As of 2015, there are a couple of GIs – Geographical Indications for the whiskies from Brittany and Alsace. They call for at least 3 years of ageing and 40% ABV, with a range of options for Bretons, but allowing only barley, a double-distillation and no color additions in Alsace. But those are voluntary and compliance is required only if a producer wants to use the GI. So, even there, let alone in the rest of the country, the whisky is largely what the distiller says or decides it will be. It might not be a bad thing, as it takes some time to figure out what works and what does not. But French flair manifests itself in the distilleries’ product lines through the approach to age indication from none to vintage, to age statement, to brandy-like designation, e.g. VS or XO. It’s also apparent in the use of oak – from new local forests wood barrels, like Limousine, also used for brandy, to many finishes in barrels previously used for top wines or brandy-making.

 

Warenghem, the birthplace of French whisky, is located in North Western part of the country – Brittany, with strong Celtic roots, and the early styles were inspired by Irish and Scottish examples. Another distillery, also in the area, Menhirs, created a new style in 2002, named Eddu, Breton for “buckwheat” using that cereal as a base. Today, there are over 80 whisky distilleries in France, spread throughout the country from the Normandy coast to Alps, and from Corsica to Lorraine region, on the border with Germany in the North, where we find Rozelieures distillery.

 

The Grallet family has been growing cereals around the village of Rozelieures for five generations since 1877, also distilling wine marc and fruit wine on a small scale for decades. However, in the early 2000s, the family decided to combine their distilling expertise with that of the cereal growers. They carry a “Single Estate French Whiskey” tag since they use only their own raw materials, and only the barley meant for whisky production, making it, for all intents and purposes, a “single malt”. Tending their own fields allows them to bottle single plot expressions, rarely seen otherwise. As most pioneers they are clearly very aware that the quality of their product will determine the success of their venture, and by extension, of the new category.

 

So, indeed, French whisky is not quite the top of mind for most whisky connoisseurs yet. But, as these hearty souls tear their paths and figure out what makes French whisky what it should be, we are actually witnessing a rare occasion of the birth of a brand new authentic product. Something that, with some luck, a few decades down the road, no one would think of placing as a ringer in a set of fictional items to make a point.

 

 

by Igor Ryjenkov, MW

Toronto-based Igor Ryjenkov MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 year in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly, in projects, most notably, developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix. Igor is one of Opimian’s Masters of Wines.