By Jacky Blisson MW
Robert Mondavi was a man on a mission. He wanted to show the world that California could make world class wines to rival the greatest terroirs in Europe. Stories abound of him travelling the wine world, pouring classified growth Bordeaux against top Napa Cabernet Sauvignons to prove their worth. Mondavi, like so many other fine wine pioneers in 1950s-1960s California, began by emulating Bordeaux – planting the same grapes, adopting similar viticultural techniques and winemaking methods. After all, the maritime influence of many of California’s major fine wine regions like Sonoma, the gravelly, alluvial soils in places like the benchlands of the Napa Valley, are traits that California shares with Bordeaux.
California’s Coming of Age
The 1976 Judgement of Paris marked a turning point for California. This famous blind tasting pitted California’s flagship estates against the best of Bourgogne and Bordeaux. In the red wine category, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon beat out Bordeaux First Growths for the number one spot. It was a verdict no one expected. Thereafter, California winemakers gained in confidence. The riper, more generous profile of California wines had clearly won over expert French wine judges, so the industry leaned in. By the end of the century, California was known the world over for its fruit-forward Cabernet and opulent, buttery Chardonnay. Today, these two grapes represent some 40% of California’s vineyard acreage. The hot, interior Central Valley began churning out value wines to slake the growing American thirst for its bold, fruity wines. The vineyards of the Sierra Foothills, planted during the gold rush era, carved out a name for their old vine Zinfandel and Syrah blends. Meanwhile, closer to the Pacific Ocean and the Coastal Mountain ranges, places like Sonoma, Napa, Monterey, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara County, and the like, became increasingly known for their premium, icon wines.
Post Modern California
Over the past two decades, the stereotype of “big” California wines has shifted. Long established growers are now more attuned with their terroirs and a new generation has emerged, eager to experiment and intent on preserving old vines. Their new wave California wines are focused on balance and freshness. Latest records show that over 100 grape varieties are grown across California – with increasing segmentation of cooler climate grapes/ styles like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, aromatic whites and sparkling wine in areas most directly affected by coastal fogs. Warmer, inland vineyards are dedicated to fuller bodied wine styles like the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Merlot, Zinfandel, Rhône grapes, and more.
The Enduring Eminence of Bordeaux
While California discovers its strengths, Bordeaux’s identity is firmly anchored. Global reverence for its fine wines was cemented long before its 1855 Classification of top Left Bank estates. The sheer quantity of its immaculately kept châteaux and vineyards speaks volumes of the wealth generated by Bordeaux wineries through the centuries. Bordeaux remains a highly traditional region today, with strict viticultural and winemaking regulations guarding its signature wine styles. Its storied red wines are made, as they have been for generations, from Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon led blends, aged in French oak barrels. Its Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon dominant white wines are made in both dry and lusciously sweet styles, like Sauternes, affected by a benevolent fungus, romantically dubbed, “noble rot”. Located on the Atlantic Coast in southwestern France, Bordeaux is the country’s largest producer of appellation wines. Though most are more familiar with its fine wines from famous terroirs like Pauillac, Margaux, or Saint Emilion, Bordeaux is also a treasure trove for value wines. Lighter, unoaked (or lightly oaked) wines from larger appellations like Bordeaux AOC or Côtes de Bordeaux make delicious everyday options.
Preserving Heritage in a Warming Climate
Across the winemaking world, warming temperatures and increasingly erratic weather patterns are a shared reality that demand adaptation in even the most classic of regions. While Californian’s look at ways to ward off forest fires, shade grapes for an increasingly hot sun, and hold moisture in arid soils, Bordeaux is fighting frost, battling mildew, and looking at new, later ripening grapes better suited to hotter growing seasons.
In 2019, Bordeaux rocked its aficionados by announcing the approval of six new varieties in the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. No need to fear for Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon’s supremacy just yet though! Only 10% of these new grapes are permitted in blends. Only time will tell how the wines of California and Bordeaux evolve. For now, each offers great value, everyday wines and excellent cellaring options for wine lovers.
Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.