Jerzy was not a winemaker. He was not even French. The Ontario native’s connection with this part of the Dordogne came via a successful charcoal business that he had bought some years previously. (If there is a link, it is in the gracefully snazzy company logo taken from an original charcoal drawing by his wife Pat, a talented graphic designer).
His answer to the first of two potential obstacles was to approach his nephew, Stefan, who was already knocking out some garagiste-worthy stuff back home in Niagara. Did he want to trade up and go Gallic? Stefan said yes.
His answer to the second is to rev up all things Canadian. He chooses Canadian white oak alongside traditional French barrels to mature his wines, which is a stroke of genius straight out of left (blue clay) field. He’s also found the merciless British market relatively easy to navigate; Quintessence de Beauportail 2019 scooped a gold medal at the 2023 London Wine Competition.
Pécharmant itself might not be widely known, yet it is brilliantly situated. This far inland, there is less risk of washout than in Bordeaux and most of the vineyards lie on south-facing, gently-rolling slopes that receive ample sun exposure and a steady amount of air movement, which prevents both disease and the grim possibility of wrinkly grapes.
Big-hitting Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are the norm, as put to good use in Jerzy’s structured Quintessence de Beauportail. There is more space for Merlot in his Château Beauportail, which impresses with a ripe, Christmas-cakey appeal. This is where the blue clay comes in. It is particularly effective at retaining water and keeping its cool in summer which gives early-ripening Merlot (and other varieties like Côt) the chance to develop power – and yet retain acidity – in the warm Pécharmant climate. This makes Beauportail decidedly ageworthy and, given the stratospheric prices of premium Bordeaux, has got to be good news.
Beauportail is a diligent family operation. Stefan’s wife, Virginie, is the Sales Director, while Pat is the Marketing Director. Production is limited to 5000 cases per year and behind the charming Canadian veneer is a solid respect for local tradition. Their use of the basket press to carefully extract tannins is a choice that both benefits the consumer and safeguards heritage. Farming practices focus on minimal intervention, leaving the natural environment as near to its original state as possible and preserving the status quo for future generations. Beauportail is a heart and soul story of hard work and just a little luck. Here at Opimian, we support exactly that.
by Michael Palij, MW
Michael Palij MW is the third Canadian Master of Wine. He specializes in Italian wines and has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers.